The Magnificent Cocktail Umbrella
Let’s face it, a Tropical drink is just not complete without that colorful, paper parasol. The history of the tropical cocktail tells a story of delicious concoctions made with Caribbean light and dark rums, fresh squeezed fruit juices and rare flavoring, all served in a unique, ice filled glass. The drink’s theme is the exotic, and what could be more exotic that a mini paper parasol, a nod to the mysterious, ancient Asian culture.
So how did this cocktail tradition start? Like much of the history of adult beverages, the origins of the cocktail umbrella are murky and speculation abounds. No one really knows for certain how the colorful paper piece of whimsey came into being.
Some claim the history began with the repeal of Prohibition in 1933. This is the year that Donn Beach opened the first Don the Beachcomber in Hollywood. Beach was the godfather of rum based Tropical cocktails and Tiki culture. And his signature “Rum Rhapsodies” are just as popular today as they were when introduced to a post-Prohibition booze starved public, sick and tired of bathtub gin. However, the study of vintage menus and early photographs of his original establishment shows no paper umbrellas in sight.
Some claim that Donn Beach’s arch rival Victor Bergerson, owner of Trader Vic’s, was the first to use them until shortages during WWII cut off his supply from Japan.
Some say the cocktail umbrella was born in the 1950s, during the height of the Tiki craze. That cultural phenomenon was fueled by returning service men who had lived and fought in the South Pacific during WWII. They brought their love of the island life back to the USA.
Some claim that the paper umbrella was first used in 1959 at a hotel in Hawaii, with US statehood for the Hawaiian Islands adding to the world-wide allure of all things tropical.
The purpose of the garnish is full of more speculation, ranging from the ridiculous to the pragmatic. Some claim the paper provided shade, keeping the ice from melting too quickly. Others claim the colorful garnish was a marketing device, used to attract the attention of female patrons; after all, a beautiful cocktail is a desirable cocktail. And after finishing the drink, she had a souvenir to take home.
The early cocktail umbrellas were hand made of a soft wood, colored paper, featured a floral theme in colored inks and were imported from Japan. At the time, the Japanese economy was still recovering from the aftermath of the Second World War and the country was known for making inexpensive items made of paper and toys made of tin. At the time “Made In Japan” meant cheap and of questionable quality.
Which leads to a related cocktail umbrella bit of history. As the story goes, a group of Toyota Motor Corporation executives were visiting Detroit in the early 1950s. The purpose of the trip was to observe the Detroit automobile industry’s methods of manufacturing. On the assembly line, they saw procedures that worked and procedures that didn’t. They would do things differently in their country. During a luncheon hosted by their Detroit counterparts and a round of drinks, an American executive held up the cocktail umbrella garnish that came with his drink. “Look,” he said to the visitors, “A product from your country.” A smattering of chuckles from the group followed his remark. The flippant comment personally shamed the Japanese executives and had a long-lasting effect. They made a silent vow forever to change the image of Japanese products with a relentless focus on quality. Their dedication paid off and the Toyota Motor Corporation was instrumental in changing that perception. One could argue that the Japanese visitors got the last laugh.
Many standard cocktails are garnished with a cherry and/or a wedge of citrus. With Tropical drinks, the presentation is just as important as the drink ingredients. By their very nature, these beverages are more expensive, given the multiple ingredients and the time it takes to make them. The cocktail umbrella serves as an “Added Value” element that can help justify the price. It quite simply makes the beverage “special”.
Now the relationship between the Tropical drink cocktail and the paper umbrella is so solid that many refer to all Tropical drinks as “umbrella drinks”.
The cocktail umbrella has segued from the world of rum to become a piece of art used in party center pieces, lanterns, Christmas tree ornaments and Holiday wreaths. And the colorful piece of whimsy doesn’t just dress up exotic drinks. They are used to add a festive look to cakes, cupcakes, and ice cream sundaes.
Like so many things these days, the Cocktail Umbrella is now made in China. The quality has suffered with the soft-wood umbrella ribs replaced with a thin cardboard although the wood shaft remains. Also, the size of the umbrella has decreased. That said, they still serve the same purpose they always did.
Fortunately for Tropical drink lovers, the Cocktail Umbrella is alive and well and still widely available through brick-and-mortar restaurant and bar suppliers and, of course, the almighty Internet.
